By changing the course of womenswear, Chanel is rightly regarded as one of the most influential fashion houses of all time. Here we look at the history, innovation and lasting legacy of the superbrand.
By changing the course of womenswear, Chanel is rightly regarded as one of the most influential fashion houses of all time. Here we look at the history, innovation and lasting legacy of the superbrand.
A determined visionary, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel made her first foray into fashion by opening a hat boutique - Chanel Modes - during 1910 in Paris. Favoured by French actresses, the store soon earned a sterling reputation, paving the way for the unveiling of the first Chanel boutique two years later in the French seaside resort of Deaville.
Shortly after opening its doors, the boutique revolutionised womenswear by offering clothing made from jersey, liberating ladies from uncomfortable corsetry. The incredible success of the collections meant that a couture house soon followed in Biarritz - a holiday spot for nobility - which saw the label size up to a team of 300 in response to demand, and debut its iconic monochrome logo.
By 1918, Coco set up her Paris couture house at 31 Rue Cambon, which still features the same layout today.
31 Rue Cambon - Chanel's legendary location in the heart of Paris
Alongside its first makeup and skincare collections, during the 1920s Chanel introduced the little black dress - now a timeless wardrobe staple - and launched its premier perfume, Chanel No 5. Famously worn by screen icons such as Marilyn Monroe, the scent was the first fragrance to be named after a designer, and the first to be advertised on television. As testament to its staying power, it remains to be the world’s most popular fragrance over a century later, with a bottle reportedly sold every 30 seconds.
Following the end of the Second World War, the label also launched its coveted quilted bag, which still features in its current collections and has been replicated by brands across the globe. The trimmed tweed suit and two toned pumps were also unveiled during the 1950s - two of Chanel’s best-known designs that have been frequently revisited and redefined over the decades that followed.
Adored worldwide, Chanel No 5 continues to be the most popular scent ever created
Following the death of Coco in 1971, Chanel was led by a number of designers with limited success, however the appointment of Karl Lagerfeld in 1983 completely transformed the fashion house. Taking control of every aspect of its creative output, Lagerfeld re-imagined its classic pieces and introduced his own iconic designs such as the ruffle gown and interlocking C logo, reinvigorating the label and cementing his position as a revered style icon.
Under the artistic direction of Virginie Viard - the late Lagerfeld’s right hand woman and now successor - Chanel continues to push fashion boundaries, while still staying true to the brand's roots. By bringing together Parisian elegance and feminine wearability, Viard is continuing the label’s legacy of understated elegance with a modern take, continuing Coco’s vision of comfortable luxury.
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German designer Karl Lagerfeld transformed Chanel into an international superbrand
Chanel's iconic monochrome branding